There are days that I wake up and can’t stand to look at myself in the mirror.
I think about what I did last night and shake my head. I never thought I’d turn into one of them. The unnecessary risks. The disregard for other people. I’m ashamed of what I’ve become. And yet, when the weekend comes and I inevitably get that itch for a cheap thrill, I’m sure I’ll just do it again.
It’s in my DNA now. I’m a biker.
Not in the tattoo clad, Aryan Nation sense, of course. I’m a Beijing street biker, part of a proud but shrinking group of tiger moms, crusty old men and expat hipsters traversing a city increasingly ruled by cars.
It’s not a lifestyle for the passive. Cars don’t respect bikers, and neither do pedestrians. All three often end up fighting for the same space, and usually the first one to occupy it wins. It’s a dirty and sometimes deadly game of chicken.
Not long after I moved to Beijing, I saw a Pizza Hut delivery guy get creamed by a truck. After witnessing a few more accidents, I vowed not to buy a bicycle. And so for two years, I relied on the subway, buses and taxis to get around.
All three have their drawbacks. The subway can get ridiculously crowded (I was once nearly lifted off my feet by a mob trying to cram into an already packed carriage car). Buses tend to get stuck in traffic, especially along older and narrow roads. And vacant taxis can be hard to find late at night, or often refuse to stop when it rains or snows.
Walking isn’t very ideal either. Beijing is a huge city – at around 6,500 square miles it’s bigger that the state of Connecticut – and for nine months out of the year, the weather is either scorching hot or freezing.
The best 200 yuan I’ve ever spent.
During one of those hot months last summer, a friend of mine sent me a text and said he was moving back to New York and looking to sell his bike for 200 yuan ($32), lock included. I hesitated for a few weeks, but when he couldn’t find anyone else to buy it, I finally said yes.
This marriage of convenience soon turned into a steamy relationship. I now go everywhere on my bike: to buy groceries, to exercise at the park, to meet friends at bars. Whatever safety concerns I had have dissipated, and I run red lights, squeeze between buses and startle pedestrians when I whiz by.
There have been some close calls. I recently came within inches of rear-ending a car. A couple of months ago, I clipped an old man on a bike heading in the opposite direction, who veered right when he should have gone left. We glared at each other and then kept going. No blood, no foul.
None of the near misses slowed me down, but I did buy a helmet. I might not yield for other cars, bikes or pedestrians, but the pavement I respect.
Slightly Reworded 
BIG UP THE BEIJING BIKE! No better way to spend a lazy Sunday in Beijing than to hop on board a rickety old bike and potter aimlessly through hutongs. Also, no bike post would be complete without a nod to the bike repair men and women who saved my spokes on many an occasion for never more than 60 kuai (and that included tyre, new seat, bell and basket).
Those repair men are the best. I’ve never paid more than 20 kuai for maintenance on my bike.
I like your account of riding in China. However I would also purchase a neck brace next time I attempt it. The last time a wire was strung across a road (apparently to warn not to go that way) and not seeing it (imagine a single metal wire cable the colour of the earth/sky) I rode straight through/into it. I was ok, just a bit bruised. But like you and the other commentators I still ride wherever I go!
Thanks for the compliment. Sounds like you were lucky to escape with only a few bruises! A buddy of mine recently ran over a sewer manhole that was uncovered. He was thrown over the handlebars and suffered some nasty scrapes and bruises, but was ok otherwise. You just have to be very aware of your surroundings when you’re riding through a really busy city.
Thanks for reading.
Jimmy
Oh no. Glad to hear your friend was ok. I’ve had some crazy accidents on my bike on flat roads too though… but we live to tell another biking story! Keep up the riding and the great writing. Cheers Erin
Lol Doug. With the strength comes the gray hairs signifying survival. I have a head full of it. Lol again as I willingly accept the gray for the alternative of not surviving.
Teresa
Teresa! Great to hear from you. I’m glad you found my blog. Amy is talking about visiting in May, and I’m already getting excited about it.
Hope you’re doing well.
Jimmy
Helmet = good!
That kind of math is hard to argue with!
JImmy –
Don’t believe that “that which does not kill you doesn’t necessarily make you stronger.”stuff. in three successive years bicycling accidents have left me with a concussion, a broken hand, and a broken ankle. I’m still riding, mind you, but I’ve promised my wife I’ll no longer pedal single-track mountain bike trails while riding solo. I’m enjoying the blog. Glad you’re doing it.
Roger Roger McBain Courier & Press staff writer 812/464-7520 office 812/431-1461 cel ________________________________
Thanks for the kind words Roger. I knew that you liked to bike, but didn’t realize you’d had so many accidents. I haven’t done much mountain biking here. I just mostly use my bike to get around town.
Merry Christmas!
Jimmy
That which does not kill you makes you stronger
I believe a wise man once told me that.