Hole-in-the-wall restaurant leaves hole in the stomach

I’m a big believer in giving second chances. And if you’re a restaurant that serves great dumplings for less than $2 a serving, I’ll even give you a third, fourth and fifth chance even if the occasional batch leaves me feeling a little green.

Such was the case at my favorite neighborhood dumpling joint, 杭州小吃 (Hangzhou Snacks). The place has all the characteristics of a Chinese dive restaurant. Limited seating. Few spouts for hand washing. No bathroom. And dirt-cheap prices.

A middle-aged man runs the restaurant with his wife. He’s short on words and smiles but always remembers what I want: two orders of dumplings and a tall, cold bottle of Yangjing beer. The man often smokes cigarettes while he cooks, occasionally looking up at a TV mounted to the wall to read a headline on the 6 o’clock news.

The man takes care of the steamed buns and dumplings, while his wife boils the soups and serves the vegetable and rice dishes. She’s the charmer of the two, and not averse to greeting me with a smile when I settle my bill.

The dumplings are comfort food, the Chinese equivalent of my mom’s salmon patties and mashed potatoes. But for a foreigner with a weak stomach, eating there comes with a risk. As one of my friends eloquently put it: “I go there regularly. After eating their dumplings, I also have to go regularly, if you know what I mean.”

But, like a girl who refuses to leave her abusive boyfriend, I kept coming back, until a recent bout of food poisoning that forced me to see a doctor. His advice? Stay away from the hole-in-the-wall restaurants and street food. “Even we don’t eat that stuff,” he said.

That was two months ago, and I’ve since heeded his advice. Still, there are days when I pass by the restaurant, spot a bowl of fresh dumplings steaming up the window and think about stopping.

My heart says go, but my stomach says hell no.


Postcards from Hangzhou

A famous bridge on Xihu Lake.

Xihu (West Lake) is the most popular tourist destination in Hangzhou, Zhejiang province.

Buddha and a baby.

A child poses with a Buddha statue on a busy commercial street in Hangzhou.

A bridge along Xihu Lake.

Xihu is a manmade lake that didn’t come into existence until the 8th century.

View of Xihu and downtown Hangzhou from Leifeng Pagoda.

View of Xihu and downtown Hangzhou from Leifeng Pagoda.

Worst translation ever?


I’ve lived in China for almost four years, so I’m used to seeing bad translations, more commonly known as Chinglish. But this one, in downtown Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, stopped me in my tracks. It’s a store selling makeup products called, simply: Slavery.

(In Chinese, the store is called Xiao Xian Nu, or 小仙奴. I have no idea what they intended to mean.)

Miracle on Qinghai Street

I’m in Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, for the Chinese Labor Day holiday, and all I wanted yesterday after trekking around the city on foot for eight-plus hours was a hot shower.

When I got back to my hostel, I set my cell phone on the bathroom sink, so I could charge it and listen to a podcast while I freshened up. A few minutes later, much to my horror, I heard a “plopping” sound. A smartphone owner’s worst nightmare had come true. Continue reading